Playing Doc’s Games by William FinneganFor those of you looking for something to read, here’s a great one:
Playing Doc’s Games by William Finnegan
written in 1992 and published in New Yorker
And here’s a great interview with the author:
I read the whole thing in one sitting. And I read it again the next day. I sent it to all my friends, surfers and non-surfers. I had found the voice I was looking for, a voice that represented surfing in an authentic, compelling, and complicated way.
– Ashton Politanoff
If you are interested in other surf-inspired books, check out our Books page.